If anyone doubts the annexation of Williamsburg/Greenpoint into the greater Manhattan orbit of big-box multifunctional art-glam-food, all one has to do is look around and take stock of the neighborhood. Banking on the inevitable land-scramble that is coming to this corner of Hipsterville, investors and carpetbaggers have laid down bets on their ability to fill ever-larger spaces.
First, there was Planet Thailand moving into new, cavernous digs, then Sea Thai with space large enough for a reflecting pond, Tacu Tacu with its interior cabanas, and Paloma with its soaring ceilings and late night party vibe. Now there is My Moon, some 250 seats worth of fine dining plopped down in the heart of old industrial Willy-B, and hopping to cash in on the never-ending Willy B Boom.
Make no mistake. My Moon is an attractive place. Enter the patio, with Vong-style covered booths on the left, and a brunch deck to the right. The feel is that of a modern Mediterranean boardwalk; the only thing missing is access to the water - but a fountain along the wall does its best to stand in. The interior, built among the ruins of an old industrial boiler room, is decked out in metal sculptures and warm, earthy ochre tones. A giant bar dominates the center room, while cozy sets of tables allow diners to converse while contemplating the Mediterranean menu.
The best thing about My Moon is that it offers an alternative to the Thai and-sushi-dominated culinary landscape. Here, hot & cold meze, couscous and a variety of kebabs and fishes are on hand, along with a few pan-Spanish-inspired tapas that mix well with the Turkish fare (try the morcilla piquillos or the charcuterie platter). But My Moon is not just a Turkish restaurant with an art space slapped on top of it. What makes My Moon truly different from other upscale Turkish/Middle Eastern venues is that the food is not necessarily prepared in the traditional way, nor is it served in the traditional style. The tuna stack, a tartar topped with toasted beets, arrives like something from BLT; the pan roasted tuna is plated like something from 66. For those expecting the food to be run-of-the-mill Turkish, the each item here is a nice surprise. It is not Old Istanbul, but New Istanbul; for those who have visited Turkey and know its cultural capital, this restaurant works that modern Turkish aesthetic. For the uninformed, the food does not meet expectations of the usual kebab house preparation and presentation.
The best things on the menu are the cold meze, like the corban salata (pronounced chore-bahn), the octopus salad, the tuna stack, the roasted tuna and the kebabs. The couscous is okay but lacks a little something from North Africa, perhaps some of the spicy red sauce that is usually offered alongside a couscous dish. Wine selections are decent, as are beer. Specialty cocktails are not cutting edge, but pair well with the food on offer. While not expensive for Manhattan, for some Brooklynites My Moon cuts too deeply into the food & fun budget.
The overall feel is not typical of the neighborhood, at least not the neighborhood of today; but it is definitely the vibe of the tomorrow that is to come to. Hipsters might cast a disparaging eye as they try to ignore what is happening all around them, but for those who come over the East River on the L Train to try out the new and yes, less-expensive fare on offer in Brooklyn, this is the place to be. Change is coming. The old guard of hole-in-the-wall eateries, cafes run with college-alternative-attitude, and renegades like Vera Cruz will soon find itself grossly outnumbered.
Like many of the local eateries, services can be spotty, if not altogether dippy. Most of the servers here take it easy, and the timing from the kitchen can be somewhat off. However, there is no press or stress – just relax and enjoy the meze.